The humble sandwich has been filling holes in many a tum for centuries. A meal slapped in between two slices of bread, thought up in the mind of the Earl of Sandwich in 18th Century Kent, has been a popular addition to ones daily menu. Sandwiches can be a cause for debate sending people into a heated rage when asked how best to prepare a bacon sarnie! I myself have read extensive articles on the perfect fish finger sandwich. It is very rare to find a sandwich shop that purely focuses on the gourmet art of sandwich making.
There is the odd café that make doorstop sandwiches which could feed a whole family, if you love a classic filling jam packed into a soft bap or nicely toasted Panini then you should try Scott’s on New Row, good value doorstop sandwiches perfect for that working lunch. If salt beef is your thing then you really need to go to Gaby’s Deli on Charing Cross Road for a salt beef sandwich that will blow your mind, and while you are there you should try Gaby’s legendary falafel wrap. Then there is many a local chain that can fill the hunger craving with a classic ploughman’s or chicken salad. The point I am trying to make is the sandwich, once a fleeting thought of an Earl, is possibly considered one of the most important food products in existence.
The common sandwich is pretty much a world staple and one man has made it his mission to create mind blowing meals that can gently rest in between two slices of his very own home made bread. If you have not heard of a man named Max who owns a sarnie shop on Crouch Hill then what bloody tin cans on string have you been listening to?! Gastronomist Max has taken the art of sandwich making and turned it into a restaurant standard meal, and not just a quick stop at the garage to stuff a ham, cheese and pickle lifeless sandwich into your gob for a quick fix. Winner of Best Cheap Eats at the Observer Food Monthly Awards, Max’s Sandwich shop is one of my favourite places, frequented by my friends and me for a weekend luncheon, and regularly deliverooed on a movie night to feed the troops. I can safely say that Max has changed the humble sarnie into a gastronomic taste bud fighter pilot.
Max’s is not your average Sandwich shop; firstly a glass counter does not greet you with ready-made sandwiches on display. All Sandwiches are made to order, you can take away or have a seat on one of the rustic wooden tables. The décor is quirky yet tasteful and there is certainly a love of ducks here. The staff are great, friendly and very knowledgeable. The Menu lives up to every pun lovers dream, with a list of 4 sandwiches daily.
I suggest you start your meal with the deep fried jalapeno mac ‘n’ cheese balls.
Max’s balls are delicious and if you’re brave enough you should have them with Max’s special hot sauce. My craving for these mac ’n’ cheese balls are strong, I especially like them with a squeeze of sriracha, but be careful these balls are hot, don’t be too greedy otherwise you will burn your tongue, slow and steady wins the race with these balls.
Although there are only 4 sandwiches on the menu daily, I can be the first to put my hands up and say that it can be very difficult choosing which one to have. My advice would be to go in a group of 4, order 1 of each sandwich and share. Or like me just be really indecisive, ask the server what you should order, go with his choice than change your mind 3 seconds later, and frantically get up gesturing at said server, change your order, sit down and have a very long conversation in your head about life choices. Sandwiches arrive to your table neatly wrapped in paper, rip off a piece of kitchen towel, delicately open your precious package, and tuck in.
The sandwich that put Max’s on the North London gastro map is the Ham, Egg & chips. Slow cooked ham hock, a fried egg, shoestring fries, piccalilli and malt vinegar mayo. This childhood meal in a sandwich can only simply be described as genius. The ham hock is cooked to perfection; it’s tender and melts in the mouth. The fried egg adds to the sauce of the piccalilli and malt vinegar mayo, and the shoestring fries add a crunch and texture to the sandwich. The bread is soft and fluffy, yet stands up to the filling, no soggy sandwiches here.
A long time ago I got to eat a sandwich here in direct violation of Penal Code 1.13, Section 9. Chris’ infamous Robocoq. Confit guinea fowl, chicken liver parfait, chicory, sweet potato fries, parsley and pickle salsa. Sometimes I dream of this sandwich, the crunch of the sweet potato fries and salsa resting against the soft moist guinea fowl. It was just a burst of flavours tightly packed into two slices of bread.
Max’s always have a vegetarian choice on offer and these do not disappoint. Just as creative as the meat options, the veggie sandwiches layer flavour and highlight the ingredient of choice. I recently tried The Bhaji Smuggler, carrot bhajis, coriander green chilli and peanut salsa, yoghurt, sweet herbs, pickle, spinach and Bombay mix. The yoghurt and dill lifted the sandwich giving it fresh, clean notes against the pickle and robust flavours of the bhaji. The Bombay mix give it a wonderful crunchy texture and a slight background note of heat, and all perfectly balanced in between Max’s home made bread.
I would like to say that I have tried the puddings on offer, but one thing Max’s does well is fill me up, and that is even with the hangover munchies. I think my stomach will need a lot more training to do a 3-course meal here. One thing you can count on here is walking away satisfied, even after you have paid the bill which comes in the belly of a porcelain duck. This place is great value for money and trust me you will be a frequent visitor.
The thing that really makes Max’s Sandwich shop a cut above the rest is Max himself. He is bubbling with personality, stories and jokes and I think my friends and me really love going to Max’s to actually spend time eating a sandwich and to hear Max’s tales. Legend has it that Agnus is the only patron allowed into the sandwich bar and drink tea when they are not even open. One day I would like to have Agnus status here, ham, egg & chips sandwich in one hand and a warm mac ‘n’ cheese ball in the other.
And all you hipster East Londoners can now try a bit of Max’s sandwiches as he will be taking up residency at Birthdays in Dalston for 6 months from 23rd May 2017.
Happy dining xx
Stilettos, Tiaras and Beer 